Engineered Hardwood Flooring

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Shop engineered hardwood flooring at Besso Floor & Decor. Explore premium oak, maple, hickory, walnut, and white oak styles—designed for beauty, strength, and stability.

What is Engineered Hardwood?

Engineered hardwood is a type of real wood flooring made with a top layer of genuine hardwood and a core of layered plywood or high-density fiberboard. This layered construction adds strength and stability while preserving the natural beauty of wood.

Unlike laminate or vinyl, which only mimic the appearance of wood, engineered hardwood uses a real wood surface—so you get the warmth, grain, and character of traditional hardwood flooring. The layers beneath are designed to reduce movement, making it less sensitive to moisture and temperature changes. That means it’s suitable for a wider range of rooms, including basements, kitchens, and areas with radiant heating.

Hardwood vs. Engineered Wood

At a glance, solid hardwood and engineered hardwood look identical, but they perform very differently.

Solid hardwood is a single plank of wood, which makes it durable and refinishable multiple times. However, it's highly sensitive to moisture and temperature changes, making it prone to expanding, contracting, and even warping.

Engineered hardwood, on the other hand, is made with multiple layers of wood arranged in different directions. This structure gives it dimensional stability—a term that means the flooring resists changes in shape, size, and integrity when exposed to humidity or temperature shifts. In practical terms, it’s much less likely to cup, buckle, or swell over time.

Because of this stability, engineered hardwood is more versatile. It can be installed over concrete, below grade (in basements), or over radiant heat. While it may not be refinished as often as solid wood, many engineered products can still handle at least one or two sanding sessions during their lifetime.

Benefits of Engineered Hardwood

  • Real Wood Surface: Unlike laminate, this is actual hardwood on top—not a printed image.
  • Dimensional Stability: Thanks to its layered core, it resists warping, swelling, and shrinking due to environmental changes.
  • Moisture Resistance: Performs better than solid wood in humid areas like kitchens, basements, and condos.
  • Flexible Installation: Can be installed as a floating floor, glued down, or nailed depending on your subfloor.
  • Eco-Friendly Options: Uses less slow-growth hardwood than solid wood, reducing waste.
  • Variety of Styles: Available in a wide range of wood species, colors, plank widths, and finishes to match any décor.

Whether you're going for a sleek modern design or rustic charm, engineered hardwood gives you the look you want with the performance you need.

Installation

Engineered hardwood is known for being easier to install than solid hardwood—and in many cases, it’s DIY-friendly. There are three common installation methods: floating, glue-down, and nail-down.

1. Floating Installation

Click-lock engineered flooring simply snaps together and floats over an underlayment. No glue or nails are needed, and it’s ideal for installing over concrete or existing flooring.

2. Glue-Down Installation

This method involves adhering the planks directly to the subfloor using a special flooring adhesive. It’s more permanent and provides solid sound dampening but may require professional help—especially over concrete.

3. Nail-Down Installation

Best suited for plywood subfloors, this traditional method secures the planks with nails or staples. It’s very stable but takes more labor and the right tools.

Before installation:
- Acclimate the flooring for at least 48–72 hours.
- Make sure your subfloor is clean, level, and dry.
- Always leave a 1/4" expansion gap along the walls to allow for natural movement.

Each installation method has its advantages, and the best one for your project depends on your subfloor, room type, and experience level. No matter which route you choose, engineered hardwood can deliver long-lasting beauty and performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How to install engineered hardwood flooring?

Installing engineered hardwood can be done in three main ways: floating, glue-down, or nail/staple-down, depending on the type of flooring and subfloor.

1. Prepare the space:

  • Remove baseboards and clear the room.

  • Check that the subfloor is clean, level, and dry.

  • Acclimate your flooring by leaving the boxes open in the installation room for at least 48–72 hours.

2. Choose your installation method:

  • Floating: Planks click together and float over an underlayment (great for DIYers).

  • Glue-down: Adhesive is spread directly onto the subfloor. Strong and durable, but more labor-intensive.

  • Nail-down: Used over wood subfloors. Provides a firm, secure hold.

3. Begin installation:

  • Start from a straight wall or longest wall in the room.

  • Use spacers to maintain a 1/4" expansion gap around edges.

  • Stagger plank ends at least 6 inches apart from row to row for stability and aesthetics.

4. Finish up:

  • Reinstall baseboards or quarter-round trim to cover expansion gaps.

  • Clean the floor and avoid heavy traffic for at least 24 hours if glued.

How to install engineered hardwood flooring on concrete?

Concrete requires extra attention to moisture and adhesion, but it’s a common subfloor for engineered hardwood. Two recommended installation methods are:

Option 1: Floating Floor (Click-Lock)

  • Place a high-quality moisture barrier over the concrete.

  • Lay down underlayment (sometimes combined with the moisture barrier).

  • Click the planks together, row by row.

  • Leave a 1/4" expansion gap around the edges.

Option 2: Glue-Down Method

  • Use a moisture-resistant adhesive approved by your flooring manufacturer.

  • Spread adhesive with a notched trowel in sections.

  • Lay each plank into the adhesive and press firmly.

  • Use spacers along the edges for expansion.

Important tips:

  • Test the moisture levels in the concrete using a calcium chloride or RH test.

  • Consider applying a concrete sealer or moisture barrier if readings are borderline.

How to lay engineered hardwood flooring?

Laying engineered hardwood properly means planning your layout, choosing a pattern, and installing with precision.

1. Plan your layout:

  • Measure the room to determine how wide the last row will be — avoid having a thin strip at the end.

  • Choose your laying direction—typically along the longest wall or toward natural light.

  • Mark a guideline using a chalk line to keep your rows straight.

2. Stagger plank ends:

  • Cut starting planks to different lengths so joints are staggered by at least 6".

  • This improves stability and mimics a natural hardwood appearance.

3. Install the flooring:

  • Use spacers to leave an expansion gap.

  • Lay each row snugly against the last, clicking or securing as needed.

  • Trim boards to fit around corners, vents, or door frames using a jigsaw or circular saw.

4. Double-check alignment:

  • Make sure rows stay straight as you move across the room.

  • Periodically check against your chalk line or guide.

How to install engineered hardwood click flooring?

Click-lock engineered hardwood is the most DIY-friendly style of flooring.

Here’s how to install it:

  1. Acclimate the planks in the room for at least 48 hours.

  2. Prepare the subfloor: It should be dry, level, and clean. Use a straight edge or level to find high or low spots.

  3. Lay your underlayment: Some click-lock floors come with attached padding, but if not, roll out a quality underlayment that includes a vapor barrier.

  4. Start laying planks:

  • Begin in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall.

  • Use spacers between the wall and the flooring.

  • Connect planks by angling the tongue into the groove and pressing down to lock.

  1. Continue row by row:

  • Stagger end joints by 6" or more for strength.

  • Cut end pieces as needed to fit.

  1. Finish with trim:

  • Remove spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round.

  • Avoid heavy traffic for a day if underlayment adhesive was used.

Pro tip: For long rooms or open spaces, consider adding a T-molding or expansion joint every 30 feet to prevent buckling.