Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Installing engineered hardwood can be done in three main ways: floating, glue-down, or nail/staple-down, depending on the type of flooring and subfloor.

1. Prepare the space:

• Remove baseboards and clear the room.
  
  
• Check that the subfloor is clean, level, and dry.
  
  
• Acclimate your flooring by leaving the boxes open in the installation room for at least 48–72 hours.
  
  

2. Choose your installation method:

• Floating: Planks click together and float over an underlayment (great for DIYers).
  
  
• Glue-down: Adhesive is spread directly onto the subfloor. Strong and durable, but more labor-intensive.
  
  
• Nail-down: Used over wood subfloors. Provides a firm, secure hold.
  
  

3. Begin installation:

• Start from a straight wall or longest wall in the room.
  
  
• Use spacers to maintain a 1/4" expansion gap around edges.
  
  
• Stagger plank ends at least 6 inches apart from row to row for stability and aesthetics.
  
  

4. Finish up:

• Reinstall baseboards or quarter-round trim to cover expansion gaps.
  
  
• Clean the floor and avoid heavy traffic for at least 24 hours if glued.

Concrete requires extra attention to moisture and adhesion, but it’s a common subfloor for engineered hardwood. Two recommended installation methods are:

Option 1: Floating Floor (Click-Lock)

• Place a high-quality moisture barrier over the concrete.
  
  
• Lay down underlayment (sometimes combined with the moisture barrier).
  
  
• Click the planks together, row by row.
  
  
• Leave a 1/4" expansion gap around the edges.
  
  

Option 2: Glue-Down Method

• Use a moisture-resistant adhesive approved by your flooring manufacturer.
  
  
• Spread adhesive with a notched trowel in sections.
  
  
• Lay each plank into the adhesive and press firmly.
  
  
• Use spacers along the edges for expansion.
  
  

Important tips:

• Test the moisture levels in the concrete using a calcium chloride or RH test.
  
  
• Consider applying a concrete sealer or moisture barrier if readings are borderline.

Laying engineered hardwood properly means planning your layout, choosing a pattern, and installing with precision.

1. Plan your layout:

• Measure the room to determine how wide the last row will be — avoid having a thin strip at the end.
  
  
• Choose your laying direction—typically along the longest wall or toward natural light.
  
  
• Mark a guideline using a chalk line to keep your rows straight.
  
  

2. Stagger plank ends:

• Cut starting planks to different lengths so joints are staggered by at least 6".
  
  
• This improves stability and mimics a natural hardwood appearance.
  
  

3. Install the flooring:

• Use spacers to leave an expansion gap.
  
  
• Lay each row snugly against the last, clicking or securing as needed.
  
  
• Trim boards to fit around corners, vents, or door frames using a jigsaw or circular saw.
  
  

4. Double-check alignment:

• Make sure rows stay straight as you move across the room.
  
  
• Periodically check against your chalk line or guide.

Click-lock engineered hardwood is the most DIY-friendly style of flooring.

Here’s how to install it:

1. Acclimate the planks in the room for at least 48 hours.
   
   
2. Prepare the subfloor: It should be dry, level, and clean. Use a straight edge or level to find high or low spots.
   
   
3. Lay your underlayment: Some click-lock floors come with attached padding, but if not, roll out a quality underlayment that includes a vapor barrier.
   
   
4. Start laying planks:
   
   

• Begin in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall.
  
  
• Use spacers between the wall and the flooring.
  
  
• Connect planks by angling the tongue into the groove and pressing down to lock.
  
  

1. Continue row by row:
   
   

• Stagger end joints by 6" or more for strength.
  
  
• Cut end pieces as needed to fit.
  
  

1. Finish with trim:
   
   

• Remove spacers and install baseboards or quarter-round.
  
  
• Avoid heavy traffic for a day if underlayment adhesive was used.
  
  

Pro tip: For long rooms or open spaces, consider adding a T-molding or expansion joint every 30 feet to prevent buckling.